When I say kitchen, I of course mean “engine bay”. Everyone loves to clean up their engine bay and painting pieces of your car’s power plant has always been a proven way to do so . Commonly folks will reach for that can of cheap spray paint under the work bench. Sure this will make the part initially look better, but what will it look like in the long run? Engine temperatures in many vehicles can be quite high (most average 250-300 degrees). Unfortunately that can of “Ford Blue” econo spray paint from under your work bench won’t cut it.
We at Eastwood have developed a high temperature engine paint that boasts the highest temperature rating in the industry at 650F! In order to do this we have worked hard with some of the newest ceramic technology to come up with a finish that can not only withstand high temps, but also resist small chips and most chemicals! The paint can either be brushed on, or for the smoothest finish, shot with a HVLP spray gun. We have also been working hard to come up with all of the standard engine colors (Ford Blue, Chevy Orange) that you love, but also have a few cult classics that you may want to check out (AMC Blue comes to mind!).
For a full description, check out our video we just recently finished showing off the product on our YouTube page!
Let’s face it, welding can pretty much be considered a “art form”. Many of us either have the lack of skills or the lack of experience to weld in a repair panel on the body of our project. Other times you may just not have the budget to buy a nice welder since you are just doing one small job. We recently came up with a tool that allows for patch panel replacement for the welder handicapped.
The tool in question is our dimpling pliers. These allow for creating a nice uniformed indent in the replacement panel in which you can drill and then rivet through to attach to the original panel. Due to the way the indentation is made, the head of the rivet sits flush with the surface of the panel. Simply use a glaze coat of filler to smooth out the repair, and you have a strong repair panel without the need for a welder. This also eliminates the possibility of panel warpage when welding thin auto body sheet metal (a big part of the “art form” that is welding)! For larger panels we advise drilling holes every 1″ along the edge of the replacement panel.
We’ve also found these pliers can be used for many other jobs around the shop. Such as ”mushrooming” drift pins/rivets found in small hinges (such as replacing those pesky pins in your vintage front opening vent windows). These are great as well to be used to make indentations for making pilot holes for plug welds when replacing a panel that you need to make a number of holes/spot welds in. (front radiator support comes to mind!)
Check out some close ups of the pliers in action below. For your full ”welder-less” panel replacement needs you may find our No-Weld panel repair kit useful. It includes all of the hand tools, panel clamps and special body panel adhesive for the DIY’er out there.
“They don’t make ‘em like they used to” is something you often heard from the older generation in the car world. In some cases this is untrue, but other times you have to sit and wonder if they really are on to something. A case in point is plastic lenses on most modern cars. Yes, they may be cheaper to make, but on a daily driven vehicle the lights often become “hazy” or “fogged” from the harsh sun light to dirt, salt, and other road debris seen on the roads. This in turn has you squinting at night because of the decreased light output that is the result of your foggy headlights. Often times your local repair shop will advise to replace the headlight assemblies completely with new. Most times this is quite expensive and will range from a couple hundred dollars to upwards of a thousand dollars (depending on the model car you have of course!). This works great, but you will be left with the same problem down the road once those new lights are exposed to the elements. Luckily, there are options to clean or polish your lights yourself and have them looking new again for a fraction of the cost of the new ones.
The best way to restore your headlights and get rid of the “foggy lens” look is to invest in a headlight refinishing kit and tackle the job at home. The only tool you will need on your own is a drill of some sort to hold the buffing wheel supplied with the kit. Simply clean your headlights of any large road debris, bugs, or other grime that may be on them. You then use some of the supplied headlight polish/compound and slowly buff the lens to your desired finish. You will see a nice contrast after a pass or two of the lenses. With a little patience you can have your lights looking new again! The best part is you can polish the lenses as many times as you’d like! It would take buying 5-10 kits to even begin to come close to the cost of purchasing a new set of lights (not to mention the labor a shop would charge you install them!).
Check out our kit that we offer for just this job. The kit includes one of the markets leading polishes for top results in restoring those headlights. We even have it marked on sale for under $20 currently!
So you are shopping for products to kill that nasty rust you found on your recent project and you don’t ever want it to come back again (much like that nasty cold you might of had last month)? But, you are unsure of what the difference is between our “Rust Converter” and our “Rust Encapsulator“? Or even which is better for your particular project? Hopefully we can help answer a few questions and educate you all in one go!
Rust Encapsulator (or “RE” as I will refer to it) is basically a “primer” type coating that can conveniently be applied over top of the rust itself and then any type of product such as a top coat of paint can be used afterwards. This product is perfect for floor pans, frames or under body parts. The RE essentially locks out moisture and air to stop any future rust. This is best used alone when you have minor rust or have cleaned the metal and want to eliminate the possibility of rust in the future such as a spot prone to rust on your vehicle. This can be used on its own separate from the Rust Converter we also offer.
The Rust Converter (or RC as I will refer to it) we now offer is perfect to use in conjunction with our RE we discussed above. RC is prefect for more extreme cases of rust in which you want to dissolve or transform the rust. What RC does is CHEMICALLY convert the rust into a black polymeric coating that seals the metal from air and moisture before any type of paint or primer is applied.
So which product is best for you? To sum it up, we suggest using the Rust Converter when you have heavy or major rust to convert and seal the rust first. Then, for the full treatment follow up with the Rust Encapsulator as a primer to completely seal and prime the surface before your top coat. The RE can be used alone if you have minor flash rust or medium rust. Do this by simply removing the loose rust and applying RE to keep that minor rust from spreading or getting any worse. We do NOT suggest using the RC if you there isn’t any rust present and the metal is clean.
Hopefully we put some confusion to rest on these products and which can be used together. Feel free to comment or respond to this blog entry if you have any other questions. Additionally if you have any suggestions for other products you feel there isn’t a clear answer on when to use the product or what exactly it does. We will try to continually be posting some answers to commonly asked questions about our products exclusively here at the Eastwood blog.
Don’t miss the video clip from the review of the RE on “My Classic Car” T.V. show we have hosted!